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entry Sept 2007
Two things that are gone.
Dog Racing.
Imagine trying to get the Dr. IQ of dogs—the German Shepherd—to chase a
mechanical rabbit around a track. (“Are you woofin’ me, pal? That toy
looks
about as much like a member of the Leporidae
family as I do. I’m a police dog, you moron. I sniff out explosives,
drugs,
and, yes, even lost children—and your jugular vein is starting to sniff
pretty
good to me right about now. Now gimme a biscuit and beat it before I
run you
in.”) Of course, the world’s stupidest dog—the Greyhound—will chase
that rabbit
until the cows come home, at which point the dogs get very confused.
I used
to regard dog
racing as a way to keep old geezers in Florida
from wandering into the Everglades.
They could
chew on unlit cigars, bet on the pooches, and in between races bet on
who could
hitch their trousers up the highest. Yet, there used to be a dog track
in Naples.
It was at the far
west end of the gigantic Mostre d’oltremare—the Overseas Fair Grounds,
adjacent
to the zoo. (“You’d better run,
Fido.
It’s gettin’ on to meal time over there in the tiger cages.” Nothing
like a
little incentive.) I used to hear the barking as I drove by, but
instead of
doing something productive, such as chase my hubcaps, the dogs were in
there
going round and round. At a certain point, the barking grew silent
(sniff, cue
the violin music). The city closed down the place in 2001 after a
series of
protests by goody-goody animal rights groups. Cruelty to animals, they
said. I
checked yesterday. The grandstand is still there, but the entire track
and
infield is given over to a giant flea-market and—on non-market days—a
parking
lot.
Jai-Alai.
This is the native Basque ball sport, the self-proclaimed “world’s
fastest
sport,” and that’s probably true unless you count hunting as a sport,
in which
case a speeding bullet is marginally faster than that hard rubber ball
that the
players fling off the walls of the huge fronton—the
Jai Alai court. That is the Basque name; it is also called by the
Spanish term, pelota. There
has
been an international Jai Alai
federation since 1929 and the sport has often been a demonstration
sport at the
Olympic Games. Jai Alai is popular in Mexico,
parts of the U.S., Spain, France
and in parts of Italy,
including the Naples
of once upon a time.
The Jai
Alai arena was
built in the 1940s in the Fuorigrotta section of the city. The arena
covered a city
block and held more than 2,000 spectators. I
am not aware that there was an actual Jai Alai League in Italy;
the
sport was local, as were the players. Gambling was intense. The arena
burned
down early in the morning of the last day of 1986. Of course, that was
the year
that Naples
won
the Italian soccer championship, so no one really cared about the fate
of a
truly minor sport such as Jai Alai. “Everyone
knows” that the Mob burned down the place. No
one seems,
though, to know exactly why. It couldn’t have been to put up its own
Mob
building since the empty burned-out shell of the building has been
standing
there for 20 years. There is some talk of putting in an ice-skating
rink on the
property, presumably because the Mob doesn’t know that ice can be
rapidly
sublimated to steam by the application of heat.
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