Miscellaneous churches
(1) to parts: (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
These churches were certainly not "miscellaneous" to
the people
who built them,
nor to those who have frequented them over the centuries in Naples. It's just
that a separate item about
each church in Naples
would denude the cyberforests of the world. These, then, are the first
entries of a potentially very long series noting the presence of
the many small or less noticed churches in a city where—in 1700—ten
percent of the population belonged to the clergy.
Santa
Caterina a
Formiello is at the extreme eastern end of the old historic center
of the
city, near the old eastern wall of the city
and the gate called Porta Capuana. It was founded about 1510,
completed
in 1593, and dedicated to the virgin martyr of Alexandria. It constituted an
important part
of an ancient monastery that originally belonged to the Celestine order
and which
passed to the Dominican fathers after 1498. They kept it until the 19th
century, when the monastic premises were closed and used as a wool
factory. Exceptional frescoes by
Luigi
Garzi from 1685 and various 16th century funeral monuments
are kept
within the church. The church has a single-aisle Latin cross interior
covered
by a barrel vault with five chapels on either side.
San
Giovanni a Carbonara is at the northern
end of via Carbonara,
just outside what used to be the eastern wall of the old city. The name
carbonara
(meaning "coal-carrier") was given to this site allocated for the
collection and burning of refuse outside the city walls in the Middle
Ages. The
monastery/ church complex of San Giovanni, itself, was founded by
Augustinians
in 1343. The church was completed in 1418 under King Ladislaus of
Durazzo, who
turned the church into a Pantheon-like tribute to the last of the
Angevin
rulers of Naples.
It was expanded over the course of the following three centuries and
contains
sculptures and artwork of considerable interest, including the chapels
of Caracciolo
del Sole and Caracciolo di Vico.
Santa
Caterina a Chiaia (photo left) is also known as Santa Caterina
martire)
and is near Piazza dei Martiri in the western, Chiaia section of the
city. The
church
was built originally as a small family chapel by the Forti family and
then
ceded to the Franciscan order, which expanded it by 1600. The church
that ones
sees today, however, is the result of a series of remodelings,
including one as
late as 1732 in the wake of a serious earthquake in that year. The
facade is
characterized by a representation of the Martyrdom of Saint Catherine
of Alexandria.
The main
entrance is marked by a plaque commemorating a restoration of the
facade in
1904. Art work in the interior is mostly dedicated to the life of Saint
Catherine, including a prominent dome display by Gustavo Girosi from
1916.
The New Church of
Santa Maria of Jerusalem —also known as the Church of
the
Thirty-Three is hidden away on via Pisanelli, a small street in
the historic center of Naples.
It was built in the second half of the 16th century and
later
demolished to make place for the present one, built at a right angle to
the
earlier church. Inside, there is stucco decoration and an 18th-century
majolica floor. The small convent annexed to the church became, in
1539, home
to a group of cloistered Capuchin sisters. The premises still serve
that
purpose.
The church was called Thirty Three from the number of sisters who could
be
housed there, with a clear reference to the age of Christ at the time
of the
Crucifixion. (The photo on the right is as about as close as you're
going
to get. When they say "cloistered," they're not kidding, and when I say
"hidden away", I mean invisible. A
stealth nunnery.)
Santa
Teresa a Chiaia is
one of the many churches in Naples
built by Cosimo Fanzago, the greatest
architect of the Neapolitan
Baroque. The church is two blocks in from the Villa Comunale in
the western part of Naples. The original church and monastery on this
site was from 1625 and belonged to the Carmelite Order. At the time,
the area inland from the sea, in back of the string of seaside Spanish
villas, was wooded and relatively bucolic. In the years between 1650
and 1664, a new complex was built by Fanzago, and it was quite large,
occupying much of the land around the church that one sees today. The
monastery was closed in the 1860s and various episodes of urban
renewal—and in some cases, urban blight—have truncated the original
complex such that, of the original premises that included gardens and
such, only the church remains. Some care has been taken,
however, to keep it looking the way it did when it
was built. The facade is an excellent example of the Neapolitan
Baroque.
Within the church, there are significant examples of art work by Luca Giordano.
San Giuseppe dei Ruffi is
in the historic center of the city, one block north of the Cathedral of Naples at the intersection of
via dei Tribunali and via Duomo. The site, itself, was originally the
location of the ancient monastery of Santa
Maria degli Angeli, closed in the 1500s. In 1611 it was acquired
by the Ruffo family as a site for a new convent. Restructuring the
earlier premises was done to a design by Dionisio Lazzari; the work was
begun in 1669 and the new convent was inaugurated in 1682, the work
completed by Lazzari's student, Giovan Domenico Vinaccia. The Ruffo
family retained the premises until 1828 when it was given over to
sisters of the Sacramentine order, who retain it to this day. Much of
the ornamentation in the church was not completed until the
early 1770's. Obviously, San Giuseppe dei Ruffi has severe competition
one block away at the Cathedral; nevertheless, the interior of the
church is
a spectacular example of the Neapolitan Baroque and Rococo.
Like many of the nearby buildings along the
same
north-south axis, the original complex was truncated by the
construction of via Duomo, the broad, straight road that now connects
Corso Umberto in the south to via Foria on the northern side of the
historic center. That construction was part of the Risanamento, the urban renewal of Naples in
the late 1800s.
San Pasquale.
The
church and adjacent monastery of San Pasquale are one short block to
the
north of the Villa Comunale and Riviera
di Chiaia on San Pasquale square, between Piazza Vittoria and Mergellina. The complex goes back to 1749
when Charles III of Bourbon and his
consort, Maria Amalia, had it built in thanks for having been blessed
with a male heir to the throne. Church and monastery were given to the
Fathers of Alcantarini Leccesi. The monastery was closed by the
government of the new nation state of Italy in December of 1866. The
premises contain significant art work of Antonio Sarnelli and Giacinto
Diano.
Santa Maria degli Angeli delle
Croci is mentioned elsewhere in this encyclopedia, since the
courtyard and monastery of the original vast complex now house the Department of Veterinary Medicine of the
university if Naples. The church, itself, remains open as such; the
façade looks down from the end of via Michele Tenore, the street
that runs along the west side of the large Botanical
Garden in Naples. (The odd term delle
Croci
[of the crosses] in
the name of the church derives from the crosses that used to be
situated along the street leading up to the church.) Those crosses were
taken down in the wake of street construction in the area in the
mid-1800s, at which time, the double stairway was added to the
entrance.
The church was
started in 1581 by the Franciscan order; the façade is "Serlian"
(from Sebastiano Serlio, the Italian Mannerist architect and author of
the influential treatise, I sette
libri
dell'architettura—that
is, it presents a central arch between two prominent architrave
elements. The statue of St. Francis above the entrance was long
attributed to Cosimo Fanzago but may
actually be by father Crisanto Gagliucci, who is said to have sculpted
it
originally for the church of Santa Maria
la Nova.
If that is true, the relocation is due to the light fingers of Fra
Giovanni da Napoli (d. 1648), the powerful head of the order at the
time, who is said to have helped himself to as much of the statuary and
silverware from Franciscan churches throughout the area in order to
decorate the new church. If it is not true, then Fanzago gets credit
for the statue as he does for most of the rest of the church. Early
comments on the church was that it had a "happy" look to it, which may
account for the fact that it was a popular place for noble and even
viceregal
weddings. The courtyard contains a remarkable series of frescoes by Belissario Corenzio
arrayed along the 36 arches of the arcade. Taken
together, they are a study of Neapolitan nobility of the 16th century;
each section displays an heraldic crest and a painting of the
appropriate duke, count or prince. The murals were among Corenzio's
last works. In his day, he was a leading muralist in Naples and like
his contemporary, Fanzago, his works were spread throughout the city.
The church of Sant'Anna dei Lombardi (the somber building on the left in
this photo) was
originally known as Santa Maria di
Monteoliveto (Mount of Olives). It is the single remaining religious
remnant of
what was once the Mount
of Olives
monastery, founded
in 1411. The entire complex was at one time one of the largest
monasteries in Italy. Urban
renewal from the 1930s literally built
around the old monastery, leaving much of the original structure
standing in
the center. At the east end, the church, itself, is still in use, but
the
adjacent monastery is now the Pastrengo barracks of the Carabinieri
(Italian national police force).
Art within the church and
the façade,
itself, display the influence of the Florentine Renaissance. Within the
church
are the monument tomb of Maria d'Aragona, the tomb of architect Domenico
Fontana, and paintings by Giorgio Vasari and Pedro Rubiales. It is
also home to
a group sculpture in terracotta from 1492 by Guido Mazzoni of the Lament
over the Dead Christ. The church once housed three paintings by Caravaggio: St. Francis in Meditation,
St. Francis Receiving the
Stigmata, and Resurrection;
but they were destroyed in the earthquake of 1805. The
original design of the church was greatly modified in the 1600s by
architect Gian
Battista Cavagna, and the church had to be restored after the bombings of WWII. As of February 2009,
the church is again open to visitors.
The
church of Santa Maria dell’Aiuto
[Saint Mary of Eternal Help or
of
Succour] is
on a small east-west street of that name about 150 yards into the old
city
across the street (via Monteoliveto) from the east side of the main
post
office. It is just past the better-known church
of Santa Maria la Nova.
The
architect was Dionisio Lazzari
[see Lazzari, Dionisio(1) (2)] and, in its newly restored condition
(after
years of being closed), the church may be appreciated for the absolute
gem of
the Neapolitan Baroque that it was. The historian Celano
(writing when
the
church was new) recounts what has become folklore surrounding the
origins of
the church—that two children in 1635 posted their own crude drawing of
the
Blessed Virgin in a window of a lower floor of what was then the
Palazzo
Pappacoda (not to be confused with a church
of a similar name) and
collected
donations. When they had collected enough, they hired a real artist to
do his
own rendition on canvas—again to solicit donations. The process gained
speed
and by the time of the great plague of 1656, a small chapel had been
founded
and then a church—on the site of the original Pappacoda
building and dedicated to
Our Lady of Succour. In an age in which such concrete manifestations
of faith
were held to be protection from earthquakes, eruptions of Vesuvius and
pestilence, not only churches arose, but also the three so-called
“plague
columns” —or votive spires—of Naples. See (1)
(2) and (3).
The
church is in the design of a Greek cross—that is, a central nave with a
transept of equal length as the nave; it has a central dome. A partial
inventory of the art works contained in the church includes:
—three paintings by
Gaspare Traversi dated
1749: The Nativity, The Annunciation, and the
Ascension of the Virgin;
—the monument tomb of
Gennaro Acamparo by
Francesco Pagano from 1738;
—also by Pagano, the
angels that support
the candelabra of the main altar;
—the painting of The Virgin of Succour by Giuseppe
Farina;
—The Flight of Joseph by
Nicola
Malincolico;
—the side ovals of The Archangel Michael by Giacinto
Diano.
The restoration of Santa Maria dell’Aiuto has been spectacularly
successful.
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